Right shoulder shift-ARMS.Proper Right Shoulder Shift and Support Arms
Jeremy Bevard
The manual of arms is practiced at every drill and at every event. Two of the most common used are Right Shoulder Shift Arms and Support Arms. The problem is somewhere down the line in the hobby, possibly from the start, the positions have been taught incorrectly. This has radiated through the hobby and is almost done universally incorrect. Many believe they are doing it right and the general idea is there. But if someone looks at pictures of reenactors at these positions and compares them to original images in those positions the differences are immediately noticeable.
Let’s take a few moments and look at how the manuals explain how to execute the command and what the final product should look like. Hardee’s and Casey’s have the same text for these positions so we will refer to just the manuals from this point forward. Once the procedure is down with a little practice it becomes as easy as the reeanctor version.
We will look into Right Shoulder Shift Arms first. This one the final product currently is not to far off. How we get there is. When a reenactor goes to Right Shoulder Shift he slowly guides it up with both hands with caution. Below are the text and the drawing from the manuals for the movements. We are starting out at Shoulder Arms.
Right shoulder shift-ARMS.
One time and two motions.
(First motion.) Detach the piece perpendicularly from the shoulder with the right hand, and seize it with the left between the lower band and guide-sight, raise the piece, the left hand at the height of the shoulder and four inches from it; place, at the same time, the right hand on the butt, the beak between the first two fingers, the other two fingers under the butt plate.
(Second motion.) Quit the piece with the left hand, raise and place the piece on the right shoulder with the right hand, the lock plate up ward; let fall at the same time, the left hand by the side.
Shoulder-ARMS.
One time and two motions.
(First motion.) Raise the piece perpendicularly by extending the right arm to its full length, the rammer to the front; at the same time seize the piece with the left hand between the lower band and guide sight.
(Second motion.) Quit the butt with the right hand, which will immediately embrace the guard, lower the piece to the position of shoulder arms, slide up the left hand to the height of the shoulder, the fingers extended and closed. Drop the left hand by the side.
So, as you can see instead of guiding the rifle up with caution, it is a few quick, tight, movements. You grab the rifle around your right elbow with your left hand and bring it up just enough to get your right hand around the butt plate. Then in one smooth motion you drop the left hand to your left side and raise the piece with only your right hand up onto your shoulder. This takes some practice to accomplish smoothly. Mostly, it takes knowing your rifle and your body and how to make the two work together in balance. Once the practice is done it looks sharp and crisp in execution.
Now let’s take a looks at Support Arms. This manual of arms position has become very reenactorized. The movements getting there and the final product are not very close compared to the directions in the manuals, the drawings from the manuals, and period pictures. The reenactor version again gets there in a more relaxed fashion. The final product often has a lean to it and the rifle is in contact with the front of the body. The hand is also high on the chest, almost to the shoulder at times. Often the teaching of this movement includes the direction of putting the hammer in the crook of the arm. But that is where many of the problems start. Now let’s look at the manuals. Again, we are starting out at Shoulder Arms.
Support - ARMS.
One time and three motions.
(First motion.) Bring the piece, with the right hand, perpendicularly to the front and between the eyes, the barrel to the rear; seize the piece with the left hand at the lower band, raise this hand as high as the chin, and seize the piece at the same time with the right hand four inches below the cock.
(Second motion.) Turn the piece with the right hand, the barrel to the front; carry the piece to the left shoulder, and pass the fore-arm extended on the breast between the right hand and the cock; support the cock against the left fore-arm, the left hand resting on the right breast.
(Third motion.) Drop the right hand by the side.
Shoulder-ARMS.
One time. and three motions.
(First motion.) Grasp the piece with the right hand under and against the left fore-arm; seize it with the left hand at the lower band, the thumb extended; detach the piece slightly from the shoulder , the left fore-arm along the stock.
(Second motion.) Carry the piece vertically to the right shoulder with both hands, the rammer to the front, chancre the position of the right hand so as to embrace the guard with the thumb and fore-finger, slip the left hand to the height of the, shoulder, the fingers extended and joined, the right arm nearly straight.
(Third motion.) Drop the left hand quickly by the side.
It may read as a complicated move but it is not. Just like anything else it takes some practice to get used to but it comes to be second nature. The rifle should be along your side now so it can be seen when looking from the front or back. Your left hand needs to be at your right breast with your fingers together. These two key factors are shown in the plate drawing and in period photographs. Once again the movements look much more military in execution when doing this by the book. It may feel uncomfortable at first but in time you find you have much more control of the rifle this way. Let’s review the key points of these movements again.
1) Bring the rifle out in front of you similar to Present Arms.
2) Grab the rifle with the left hand and raise it to your chin, which gets you the needed height.
3) Again, grab the rifle with your right hand and turn it into your left shoulder, barrel away from your body.
4) Put your left arm under the hammer so it rests on your left arm.
5) Get the rifle off your body and get it so it runs along your side.
6) Put your left hand just below your right breast fingers together.
There is an importance to learning Support Arms correctly. This position and the movements to get there and come back to Shoulder Arms are the building blocks for other movements. These include Present Arms and Secure Arms. Learning the proper way to execute these commands is a great way to add to an impression. A group of men doing these by the manual looks more military and disciplined. These could also be the building blocks for blowing away a group of judges at a drill competition too.
References:
Brig Gen. Silas Casey. Infantry Tactics. 1862
Brevet Lieut. Col. W. J. Hardee. Rifle and Light Infantry Tactics. 1855
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